Dresden Plate Quilt
Creativity is served! Powered by a fantastic floral design and complemented by an electric border, it’s easy to complete thanks to the cutting perfection of Sizzix quilting dies.
Artist: Cheryl Adam, Guest Quilter
|2 1/4 yd||Scraps of fabric-prints|
Qty 72: large Dresden plates
Qty 6: 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" squares
Qty 9: 1 1/2" x WOF, cut these into:
|3 yd||Backing fabric|
Qty 2: 1 1/2 yd pieces
|54" x 73"||Batting|
- Finished Size: 48"W x 67"L
- All seam allowances are 1/4" unless noted
- WOF=width of fabric
Making the Dresden Plate Blocks
- Place a small curved piece of the muslin right sides together with one of the Dresden plate blades. Sew around the curve from the notch created by the die to the notch on the other side of the curve. Clip the curve and turn right side out. Press. You have finished the outside curve of the Dresden plate blade. Repeat with the remaining 71 blades.
- Sew 12 of the Dresden plate blades together into a circle. Press the seams open so less bulk is created. Repeat five more times
- Center the circle of blades created in step 2 on a 12 1/2" square of muslin. Machine or hand applique in place. Repeat five more times.
- Make a 3" to 3 1/2" circle out of cardboard. (Hint: measure a glass or cup to use as a template for this).
- Use a running stitch to run a thread around the outside of a 4" purple circle. Only knot one end and leave a tail at the other end. Place the cardboard circle template in the center of the wrong side of the purple circle. Use the thread tail to draw up the edge around the cardboard. Steam press. When cool, carefully remove the template and press again. The circle now has a finished edge. Place this circle in the center of the Dresden plate blades. Machine or hand applique in place. Repeat five more times.
Making the pieced block
- Sew the long sides of one print and one muslin 2 1/2" unfinished half-square triangles together. Press seam to one side. Repeat 31 more times.
- Using four of the half square triangles made in step 1, four of the muslin 2 1/2" squares and one of the print 2 1/2" squares, sew the rows together as shown in Diagram 1. Then sew the three rows together to make a block. Repeat seven more times.
- Using the quilt photo as a guide, sew four of the blocks together to make one large block. Repeat once.
Assembling the quilt center
- Using the quilt picture as a guide, lay out the quilt on a design wall. The 18 1/4" squares of muslin that were cut in half diagonally twice are the side, top and bottom triangles. There are two extra. The 9 3/8" squares of muslin that were cut in half diagonally once are the corner triangles. The sashing is the 1 1/2" x 12 1/2" purple, and the corner squares are the 1 1/2" squares of purple.
- The quilt center is pieced together in diagonal rows. Using the quilt picture as a guide, sew the rows together first and then sew the rows together.
- Trim the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" squares of purple even with the edge of the quilt.
Add the Borders
- Sew the five 1 1/2" x WOF together lengthwise. Cut these into two 1 1/2" x 55 3/4" and two 1 1/2" x 39 3/8".
- Sew the 1 1/2" x 55 3/4" to the two long sides of the quilt center. Press.
- Sew the 1 1/2" x 39 3/8" to the top and bottom of the quilt center. Press.
- Sew the 1 1/2" x 5" pieces of prints, randomly together to make a piano key border. Press well.
- Sew these onto the sides of the quilt first. Trim and press.
- Finish the top by sewing the remaining piano key border to the top and bottom of the quilt center. Press.
- Sew the two 1 1/2 yd pieces of the backing fabric together along the selvedge edge to make the backing.
- Layer the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt by hand or machine as desired. Sew the binding strips together to form one long strip. Fold the binding in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Sew the raw edges of the binding to the edges of the right side of the quilt. Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back side of the quilt and stitch in place by hand, mitering the corners.